Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: A Delphi consensus study

Gabriella V. Alvarez, The University of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center, Houston, TX
Bianca Y. Kang, Mayo Clinic, Scottsdale, AZ
Alexandra M. Richmond, Medical University of South Carolina, Charleston, SC
Elika Hoss, Mayo Clinic, Scottsdale, AZ
Ronald Sulewski, University of Nebraska Medical Center, Omaha, NE
Kira Minkis, Weill Cornell/New York Presbyterian, New York, NY
Suzanne S. Rozenberg, St. John's Episcopal Hospital & SRS Dermatology, New York, NY
Diana Antonovich, Medical University of South Carolina, Charleston, SC
Alison Boucher, Henry Ford Hospital, Detroit, MI
Eric F. Bernstein, Main Line Center for Laser Surgery, Ardmore, PA
Vince Bertucci, University of Toronto, Vaughan, Ontario, Canada
Anne M. Chapas, UnionDerm & Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY
Joel L. Cohen, University of California Irvine & AboutSkin Dermatology and Aesthetics, Greenwood Village, CO
M Laurin Council, Washington University School of Medicine, Creve Coeur, MO
Jeffrey S. Dover, Yale University School of Medicine, Chestnut Hill, MA
Roy Geronemus, Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York, New York, NY
Katherine M. Given, University of California, San Francisco, CA
Hayley S. Goldbach, Warren Alpert Medical School of Brown University, Providence, RI
Mitchel P. Goldman, Cosmetic Laser Dermatology, San Diego, CA
Deirdre Hooper, LSU Health Sciences Center - New OrleansFollow
Joely Kaufman, University of Miami & Skin Associates of South Florida, Coral Gables, FL
Girish Munavalli, Dermatology, Laser, & Vein Specialists of the Carolinas, Charlotte, NC
Theresa R. Pacheco, University of Colorado School of Medicine, Denver, CO
Anthony M. Rossi, Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center & Weill Cornell Medicine, New York, NY
Sarah Wilson, West Georgia Dermatology, Carrollton, GA
Murad Alam, Northwestern University, Chicago, IL

Document Type

Article

Publication Date

4-14-2025

Publication Title

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Abstract

BACKGROUND: There is ambiguity regarding the topical cosmetic ingredients preferred for common skin complaints. OBJECTIVE: To determine which topical ingredients are frequently recommended by cosmetic dermatologists for fine lines and wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin. METHODS: Literature review to develop long list of ingredients. Reduced by expert panel to most salient ingredients. Two rounds of Delphi consensus survey with second expert panel of clinicians and teachers. Comparative literature review to summarize published evidence supporting each consensus ingredient. RESULTS: List of 318 ingredients reduced by a panel of 17 dermatologists to 83. Two Delphi rounds completed by 62 dermatologists at 43 centers. Consensus achieved for 23 ingredients, including the following: azelaic acid (acne, dark spots); benzoyl peroxide (acne, oily skin); glycolic acid (acne, dark spots); mineral sunscreen (fine lines and wrinkles, redness); niacinamide (redness, dark spots); retinoids (fine lines and wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores, oily skin); salicylic acid (acne, oily skin); vitamin C (fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots). Most consensus ingredients supported by level 1b or 2b evidence. LIMITATIONS: Some ingredients based on expert opinion. CONCLUSION: Consensus exists among expert cosmetic dermatologists regarding ingredients most useful for common dermatologic concerns.

PubMed ID

40233838

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